“Shut Up & Eat” Scrambled Eggs


I mentioned “The List” of basic recipes that everyone’s got up their sleeve, and everyone’s got their own spin on in my post about Mapo Tofu.  Good scrambled eggs should top that list, worldwide.  We’ve made these a Saturday or Sunday morning ritual – perfect antidote to a crappy week or a big night out, and perfect topped off with a home-steamed flat white (or if you live near a cafe, it takes just about the same amount of time to make as sending someone out to buy coffees), a really good OJ, and weekend morning terrible video clips on TV.  I miss Rage.

As with anything, good scrambles come down to good ingredients.

  • Good Bread. Crusty on the outside, chewy on the inside.  In Australia we use fresh Italian ciabatta.  In France, we’re using Baguettes Traditions.  We toast it by rubbing the cut surface with butter, and either pressing it in something like a George Foreman grill (that link is seriously worth clicking) or in an open frypan.
  • Good eggs. Free range at worst, organic & bio-dynamic at best.
  • Cheese. A nice, pliable melting cheese is the goods.  In Australia, we grate in Mozzarella.  In France, we’re using Emmental.  I’ve had some success with Parmesan in the past, but it’s a bit stronger in flavour.
  • Milk, or cream. This depends on how decadent and arterially murderous you want your eggs to be.  Cream is amazing, but it will kill you.  I find that full cream milk is a good compromise, and hi-lo/half-cream/demi-écremé still turns out delicious eggs.
  • Nice butter. We use the half-salt or unsalted kind.  Save the margarine for the kids’ lunches, this is cooking.

With that collection in hand, you’re on to technique.  Grab a small-medium saucepan, and a wooden or plastic spoon.  I used to use a regular metal saucepan, but we picked up a non-stick one here.  It’s changed my life.  If you have a non-stick saucepan, use it for this.  If you don’t have a non-stick saucepan and you plan to make this, consider the investment.

Cooking this dish is all about temperature control and movement.  Keep the heat low, the eggs moving CONSTANTLY, and take a second to tilt the saucepan from side to side regularly, just to make sure it’s all free on the bottom.

Start by dropping a knob of butter (about as big as you’d scrape up to butter a piece of bread per egg) into the cold saucepan while it’s still heating up, and immediately follow it with as many eggs as you need.  Crack ’em straight into the pan – beating them over the gentle heat with a dull stirrer and some butter greasing the wheels is a bit kinder to them.  I imagine it’s more like receiving a beating from a pillowcase full of oranges, as opposed to a sock full of batteries.  Once they’re in, start stirring.  Go pretty aggressively to begin with, in a big circle around the edge of the pot.  You want to break the yolks and get them all nicely mixed up with the butter as the heat gently rises and the butter melts.  The idea here is to turn it from a liquid to a solid fairly evenly.  If it starts cooking on the bottom too quickly, you can move it off the heat while you stir it through and free it up.  It does take time.

Once it’s starting to take some shape, you can start adding your other ingredients.  While it’s still mostly liquid, but starting to get some substance to it, add your cheese.  Add it to taste, but not too much.  I generally add enough to lightly cover the whole surface of the egg, then furiously continue stirring.  The idea behind adding it on low heat while the egg is still liquid is twofold.  Firstly, it moves through the eggs a lot more easily if the eggs are putting up less of a fight.  Secondly, the extra cooking time allows the casein network in the cheese to break down and lose any elasticity.  The idea is for the cheese to be subtle and add flavour, but not affect the texture.  In short, the cheese needs time to fully combine with the eggs.

Adding the milk is a delicate art.  I pour in a decent splash – a swirl, if you will.  I’m deliberately not talking in measurements because it’s not how I think or cook.  As far as timing goes, it’s better earlier than later.  Too late, and your eggs will be cooked, with watery milk around them.  Unpleasant.  If you add it too early, it can interfere with the cheese process.  My rule is that once I can’t see the cheese at all anymore, once it’s done stretching and writhing around, and before the egg becomes solid and turnable, it’s a good time to add milk.  Use the colour of the eggs in the photo as an idea of what to aim for.

The last question is that of “doneness.”  Good scrambles should be wet, but not exactly solid.  If you’ve been stirring constantly it won’t be in big pieces either, you’ll be able to spoon it out onto plates, which is great for portion division.  I’ll leave the question of “on the bread or next to the bread” to you.

By | 2014-11-17T12:09:38+00:00 November 8th, 2010|Food|7 Comments

About the Author:


  1. Smithg868 November 20, 2017 at 12:26 am - Reply

    location within my public complexes! egefeakbfkdfaeaa

  2. Smithe7 December 5, 2017 at 4:48 pm - Reply

    Actually its referred to as Search engine optimization that when i search for this post I found this web page at the top of all web pages in search engine. ggeafaebkakegdgc

  3. Smithk14 December 5, 2017 at 4:49 pm - Reply

    It’s truly a great and useful piece of information. I’m satisfied that you shared this helpful information with us. Please stay us informed like this. Thank you for sharing. fcbdkdkeagbfdkec

  4. Smithd278 January 5, 2018 at 3:15 pm - Reply

    I simply couldn’t depart your web site prior to suggesting that I actually loved the usual info a person supply for your guests? Is gonna be again continuously in order to check up on new posts. ebebebddckdgekeb

  5. Smithb149 February 5, 2018 at 8:02 am - Reply

    It’s perfect time to make some plans for the long run and it is time to be happy. I have learn this publish and if I may I want to suggest you few attentiongrabbing things or advice. Maybe you could write next articles regarding this article. I desire to read even more things about it! gffeeedebcfdfeee

  6. Smithd873 March 1, 2018 at 12:54 pm - Reply

    Hi to all, how is everything, I think every one is getting more from this site, and your views gdeabaddkkgekaek

  7. Smithb157 March 1, 2018 at 12:56 pm - Reply

    Some truly select blog posts on this web site , saved to fav. dkgakdfbdcfdbeec

Leave A Comment Cancel reply